I was really repelled by the party scene and the general vibe of the foreign backpackers in Vang Vieng when I passed through in 2010.

In particular I recall my one and only evening in town meeting a group of foreigners who had been in Vang Vieng for weeks. They told me I shouldn't rent an inner tube, but just go to the river, and steal one from one of the riverside bars. "That's what everyone else does", they said. Yeah, and whoever's tube gets stolen then either has to steal someone else's, or lose their deposit from the rental agency. What a misanthropic attitude.

So repelled that I just spent one night and went on to Vientiene the next day. After reading this report, I regret that I didn't make more effort to explore some of the nicer spots they write about. Sounds like it's worth a second look.

On the other hand, Luang Prabang and Muong Ngoy to the north were fantastic locations I'd recommend to anyone.

I first went to Tengchong in 2006 during my first trip to China. At the time, I remember Tengchong being a very fascinating off-the-beaten-path destination. At that time I'd been sticking pretty much to the well-worn backpacker route: Hong Kong-Guiln-Yangshuo-Kunming-Dali, and Tengchong was the first place I went where there were no youth hostels and no English speakers. My most fond memory of Tengchong from that trip was walking out of the town in the eastern direction into the rice paddies and wandering amongst the stone-walled villages. It was summer and the rice paddies were full of bright green saplings, and the peasants were trudging around the paddies with water buffalo-pulled plows. I found a swimming where locals gathered to go swimming and joined them. Totally uncommercial, no tourist infrastructure in sight. Well, not exactly, I did go to the rehai on that 2006 trip as well, and I remember being let down by its touristy nature. I'd wanted to go to the hot springs, but even in 2006 it cost 120 yuan, and I remember thinking at the time that was too expensive. Chris reports that now they cost 260. I guess 120 was a comparative bargain.

I went back to Tengchong in 2011, curious to see how it had changed since 2006. I found that it had changed quite a bit. There seemed to be a lot more tourist infrastructure there now. I found that same swimming hole from 2006, but now its next to a giant construction site for some so-called Ecotourism Conference Center and Resort (how a project that bulldozes hillsides, cuts down forests, and builds golf courses on them can be called "Eco" anything is beyond me). I found that Tengchong in 2011 was also considerably more expensive than Tengchong in 2006. In 2006 I paid 20 yuan for a private hotel room. In 2011 most places wanted 80-100. I ended up paying 60 for a really scuzzy place.

I didn't discover Heshun on my first visit to Tengchong. I did in 2011. The village itself is indeed charming, with excellent preserved architecture and winding cobblestone streets. However, I disdain villages that charge money simply to enter. It seems like the ultimate in commercialization. Real live villages where people live should not be turned into commodities themselves. Luckily, I got a ride into Heshun in a minivan where, for an extra 10 yuan, the driver snuck me in through the gate without having to pay. Inside the village itself every single home has been turned into a guesthouse or shop. I was there on a Saturday during the summer, peak tourist season one would imagine, yet there were very few tourists there. I wandered into a charming courthouse guesthouse/bar/coffeeshop. They wanted 30 yuan for a small beer. I couldn't help but wonder if Heshun's attempt to copy Lijiang wasn't failing to gain traction.

I later returned to Tengchong in April 2012 and did a bike ride from there to Yingjiang (盈江), Nabang (那邦), Husa (户撒), and Ruili (瑞丽), roughly retracing the steps I'd done by bus from Tengchong to Ruili six years before. This was a good cycling route, and I saw some towns and villages along the way that were beautiful and less touristy (well, basically not touristy at all) than Tengchong.

Cool, I'd previously been to the Secondhand market on Guannnan Ave (官南大道) just south of the Guannan Interchange (官南立交桥) on the 2nd ring road. It's pretty cool, but it sounds like this one is even bigger!

Shaxi makes an excellent stop on an adventurous bike riding loop starting in Dali Old Town. From Dali, ride north along Erhai to Niujie (牛街), then cut west on a dirt road over a 3200 meter mountain pass and descent straight into Shaxi. A little over 100 km, it's doable in one day. From Shaxi, you can ride south along the Yangbi River Valley to the county-level city of Yangbi, also a little more than 100 km, in a day. From Yangbi, it's only a few hours back to Dali, up the canyon next to the highway.

I did this bike ride in July 2011. I've got pictures and maps and more details; if you're interested contact me.

Very interesting! Great piece, Chris