User profile: Geogramatt

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Forums > Living in Kunming > Visa-Overstay Amnesty

@duke is me

To answer your question, yes there ARE flights between the US and China right now. But they are limited in number and expensive. China Southern flies between Guangzhou and Los Angeles twice a week. You could get to Guangzhou from Kunming in 8 hours by HSR.

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Forums > Living in Kunming > Visa-Overstay Amnesty

@duke is me

Are there flights to the country that issued your passport?

What happens if there aren't?

Are you supposed to pay for your ticket yourself?

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I was really repelled by the party scene and the general vibe of the foreign backpackers in Vang Vieng when I passed through in 2010.

In particular I recall my one and only evening in town meeting a group of foreigners who had been in Vang Vieng for weeks. They told me I shouldn't rent an inner tube, but just go to the river, and steal one from one of the riverside bars. "That's what everyone else does", they said. Yeah, and whoever's tube gets stolen then either has to steal someone else's, or lose their deposit from the rental agency. What a misanthropic attitude.

So repelled that I just spent one night and went on to Vientiene the next day. After reading this report, I regret that I didn't make more effort to explore some of the nicer spots they write about. Sounds like it's worth a second look.

On the other hand, Luang Prabang and Muong Ngoy to the north were fantastic locations I'd recommend to anyone.

I first went to Tengchong in 2006 during my first trip to China. At the time, I remember Tengchong being a very fascinating off-the-beaten-path destination. At that time I'd been sticking pretty much to the well-worn backpacker route: Hong Kong-Guiln-Yangshuo-Kunming-Dali, and Tengchong was the first place I went where there were no youth hostels and no English speakers. My most fond memory of Tengchong from that trip was walking out of the town in the eastern direction into the rice paddies and wandering amongst the stone-walled villages. It was summer and the rice paddies were full of bright green saplings, and the peasants were trudging around the paddies with water buffalo-pulled plows. I found a swimming where locals gathered to go swimming and joined them. Totally uncommercial, no tourist infrastructure in sight. Well, not exactly, I did go to the rehai on that 2006 trip as well, and I remember being let down by its touristy nature. I'd wanted to go to the hot springs, but even in 2006 it cost 120 yuan, and I remember thinking at the time that was too expensive. Chris reports that now they cost 260. I guess 120 was a comparative bargain.

I went back to Tengchong in 2011, curious to see how it had changed since 2006. I found that it had changed quite a bit. There seemed to be a lot more tourist infrastructure there now. I found that same swimming hole from 2006, but now its next to a giant construction site for some so-called Ecotourism Conference Center and Resort (how a project that bulldozes hillsides, cuts down forests, and builds golf courses on them can be called "Eco" anything is beyond me). I found that Tengchong in 2011 was also considerably more expensive than Tengchong in 2006. In 2006 I paid 20 yuan for a private hotel room. In 2011 most places wanted 80-100. I ended up paying 60 for a really scuzzy place.

I didn't discover Heshun on my first visit to Tengchong. I did in 2011. The village itself is indeed charming, with excellent preserved architecture and winding cobblestone streets. However, I disdain villages that charge money simply to enter. It seems like the ultimate in commercialization. Real live villages where people live should not be turned into commodities themselves. Luckily, I got a ride into Heshun in a minivan where, for an extra 10 yuan, the driver snuck me in through the gate without having to pay. Inside the village itself every single home has been turned into a guesthouse or shop. I was there on a Saturday during the summer, peak tourist season one would imagine, yet there were very few tourists there. I wandered into a charming courthouse guesthouse/bar/coffeeshop. They wanted 30 yuan for a small beer. I couldn't help but wonder if Heshun's attempt to copy Lijiang wasn't failing to gain traction.

I later returned to Tengchong in April 2012 and did a bike ride from there to Yingjiang (盈江), Nabang (那邦), Husa (户撒), and Ruili (瑞丽), roughly retracing the steps I'd done by bus from Tengchong to Ruili six years before. This was a good cycling route, and I saw some towns and villages along the way that were beautiful and less touristy (well, basically not touristy at all) than Tengchong.

Cool, I'd previously been to the Secondhand market on Guannnan Ave (官南大道) just south of the Guannan Interchange (官南立交桥) on the 2nd ring road. It's pretty cool, but it sounds like this one is even bigger!

Snapshot: Shaxi

Posted by

Shaxi makes an excellent stop on an adventurous bike riding loop starting in Dali Old Town. From Dali, ride north along Erhai to Niujie (牛街), then cut west on a dirt road over a 3200 meter mountain pass and descent straight into Shaxi. A little over 100 km, it's doable in one day. From Shaxi, you can ride south along the Yangbi River Valley to the county-level city of Yangbi, also a little more than 100 km, in a day. From Yangbi, it's only a few hours back to Dali, up the canyon next to the highway.

I did this bike ride in July 2011. I've got pictures and maps and more details; if you're interested contact me.

Reviews

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This is a really nice new restaurant in Dali. High quality vegetarian and vegan food, varied menu, daily specials. They make their own kombucha, too. The environment is very chill...multiple layers, floor seating, an outdoor courtyard and terrace balcony overlooking the the roofs of the neighbors in old Dali

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Serendipity is an honest-to-gosh American style diner, a concept I don't think I've ever really seen before in China.

They do salads, burgers, and pasta dishes, but the true stars of the menu are the breakfasts, which are served all day.

No measly hostel breakfast sets, these ones come with heaping servings of bacon and eggs and bottomless coffee.

No table seating. Everyone sits around the counter, where you can see what's going on in the kitchen and chat with the friendly staff.

The fresh donuts are the best I've had in China

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The 68 kuai Saturday night all-you-can-eat buffet is a terrific deal.

Steak, pork loin, chicken schnitzel, pizza, two kinds of salad, creme de caramel, cheesecake, and lots of other stuff.

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Recently experienced both very early morning departure and very late night arrival at Changshui. Was worried about making the connection to and from the airport, but both turned out well.

First, the departure. It was 7:30 am. I arranged a taxi to pick me up at 5:00. That he did. Cost: 100 yuan.

The departure was scheduled for 12:30 am, was delayed, and didn't get in until 2:30 am. I was sure I'd have to find a black cab, and wasn't even sure if I would find that. Instead, I was delighted to discover that the Airport Express Bus was still running! For 25 yuan it took me to the train station, where I then caught a cab for the short ride the rest of the way home. I was very impressed by this late night bus. I'd thought the buses only ran till around 11 pm-midnight. I don't know if this is a regular occurrence or not. Maybe, knowing my flight was delayed and there would be hundreds of passengers looking for a ride home, the airport dispatched an extra bus. If so, kudos to whoever was responsible!