Sorry, if I sound like a bitch - Im not. The point is that it takes more than a Lonelyplanet, and some sporadic newsreport, to make some realistic estimation about that border (- not that I'd even care that much about it, but I could arrogantly say, to "educate" here a bit. Really, I couldnt care less about cruising in there with a backpack and a guitar, looking for some Max Myanmar tigerburgers in the oppressive heat.)

To make a realistic estimation here, the sporadic news and the Lonelyplanet, shall be blended with some history, social situations and recent conflicts taking place. With this broader Peter99 view, we can start to make some real estimations here. That is, forget the border at the moment.

Heres just two news picked from today and yesterday:

www.irrawaddy.org/burma/drugs-guns-seized-shan-state-raid.html

www.irrawaddy.org/burma/kachin-clashes-leave-idps-cold.html

Now do they really want some backpackers roaming around there right now? I dont think so. Lets hope it opens next summer.

Yesterday a bomb blew up a bridge, and a truck, on the China-Burma highway, a few km from border, as Peter99 more or less predicted. Now (folks) its time to put the Myanmar Lonelyplanet back on the bookshelf and focus on camelburgers instead.

"RANGOON — At least three people were killed Tuesday when a truck blew up in an apparent bomb attack in Burma's northern Shan State, according to a local resident and a news report. A resident of Kunlong Township told The Irrawaddy that a makeshift truck normally used to carry agricultural products blew up as it drove over a bridge on the way into Kunlong town, which is located only about 10 miles from the Burma-China border. The frontier areas of Shan State are home to numerous ethnic armed groups and are infamous for illegal opium and methamphetamine production. The Shan State Army-North, which is stationed in the area near Kunlong, has signed a ceasefire agreement with the government, but sporadic fighting still breaks out and the group has in recent months complained of government army troops being deployed near rebel positions."

www.irrawaddy.org/[...]

For a fascinating account of an illegal 18-month 'family trip' through northern Burma from India to Yunnan in the late 80s read Bertil Lintner's LAND OF JADE: A JOURNEY THROUGH INSURGENT BURMA.

Thanks for the tip on the book Alien. Sounds interesting. I wonder if it can be got in China?

Regarding the Ruili border crossing. There's some interesting news on this site about it.

That book is boring, and it has Hedins (Swedish) legacy on it, with adventures that never stop. It was certainly brave to be in there those days, but the book could have been written with less excitement.

To choose an even more dull book, then go for Shelby Tucker, with the fancy title: Among Insurgents - Walking through Burma. This is an American backpacker type of man, that crossed illegaly from Chinese side. Its a really stupid book.

To choose some class, go for Colin Metcalfe Enriquez, whos books you get free from Internet. Those days - when the telegraph was a disturbing stress-factor - there was time to make some peaceful observations around. (Most new books are just rubbish - as we all know.) Even bird songs are described, in the stillness in northern Shan state.

Same goes for George Scott, and his upper Burma notes during late 19th Century/early 20th.

Burma Surgeon, Seagrave, did some interesting writing too, and theres a more recent book out too: "The Trouser People" - and it can get a stamp as "qualified".

Stay away from Lintner unless you like detailed descriptions about long talks with loose militia.

LAND OF JADE, A journey from India through northern Burma to China, is definitely not a Hedin book. He went there to investigate the different insurgent groups in the area and that is what he did. That is what he writes about and his actual trip of thousands of Km on foot with his wife and just born baby is just there to illustrate how he did it. It formed him to be the most knowledgeable journalist when it comes to Burma and insurgency. He made the trip in 1985 so it is a bit dated but still a valuable historic document.
I have the book here but are reluctant to hand it out because they become rare and expensive but if you are really interested then sent me a PM.

Well, whoever wants to believe, that a white man just walks into several rebel camps and gets all the delicate military details personally from the highest officers - its fine. Asia doesnt really work that way - not rebels either.

The Burmese are gullible indeed, but its all a career thing aint it. And a young Swede up there somewhere, at a certain time.

Peter99.

First read the book before you have comments on it.
Or is it just jealousy?

What a conclusion - congratulations.

Anyone want to know about the border crossing?

When you get to Ruili,, get a cab go to the big gate. Get out, and walk through the jade shop. Other side, stroll down the road towards the fence, and walk along it. You're gonna see some holes with locals climbing through shrubbery. Not a pleasant crossing point as there's another wall on the opposite side. If you continue, and past the next checkpoint, everything becomes rural. Out there is a hole that leads to a guy building a new house in the middle of nowhere. I think there is a very deep ravine somewhere in the weeds.

Go back to the starting point, and this time walk left. There's a hole behind a power station/box that many locals use. Just climb up, and slip through landing on the soft ground on the other side. That's all backyards for shops and a KTV parlor. You want to aim for a gap between the buildings. Be prepared. You need to toss your bag over first, then long jump the ravine that runs under the houses to make it to the main road on the other side in Muse.

If you choose to continue left instead of taking that hole, there's another one in the middle of a road and on the Muse side it has a little sidewalk that leads to an alley with shantys. If you follow the alley to the right, you'll eventually make it to the main road.

My word of warning to the explorer, if you choose to cross through the hole rather than the official checkpoint, you are responsible for your own actions. When I was there, people knew I was a white guy. I'd ask for directions to the bus station while walking down "main street" in the middle of the night. I made many mistakes. First, knowing where you're going is an advantage. If you need to ask people for advice ask someone an hours walk away. Also, try to ask as FEW people as possible. Don't walk down main street very often. Don't walk at midnight I believe there's a sort of curfew.

Be wary of anyone says they're police. I settled on a step in front of a closed shop, and 2 biker dudes stopped. They came over said they were police and wanted to see my passport. The one guy was dressed like a civilian biker bum, while the other was wearing a dirtied jacket with a patch. I got up and told them I was leaving, and they left me alone, but whatever you do be warned that there may be some that pretend to be police to steal your passport.

On that note, also be warned of real police driving civilian cars and wearing civilian clothes. 3 dudes out for a late night drive pulled up alongside me, and said they were police asked if I needed help. Then they asked to see my ID. I tried same trick with the biker dudes, but this time they followed me to the hotel I walked to. They asked the manager if I was staying there, and when he said no it's full, I said I was going to the next hotel. They hopped in their car, and drove there before me. They ran in and talked with management before I could even walk up the sidewalk.

Be warned that police are strict as nails there. They will not hesitate to toss a foreigner in a cell. Add to that, I could tell they were strong too. The immigration officer arrived with 2 uniformed Burmese police that were built like American football linebackers while wearing sandals. Taking into account police are wearing sandals is a clue that a guy in sneakers probably can't outrun these guys.

I got off easy and they took me back to the hole in the fence and shoved me back into China. I can't say they'll do the same for the next foreigner that strays over the boundary.