I don't have a license either, but this type of travel is doable. I road from Dali to Shaxi, then Shaxi to Jian chuan, from there to Lijiang old town, and then took a long road trip from Lijiang back to Dali. It was quite an experience, and I was lucky enough to not get pulled over. There are a lot of old back roads that are available for this type of travel, but you have to be aware that some of the road signs have not been updated or just don't exist. So, you can expect to make a few detours. It's always nice to stay in some small towns, it especially works out when you can speak efficient mandarin or if you listening skills are very attentive because you could find free places to crash, and really get to meet the locals.
Some small towns are just ridiculous when it comes to hotel prices. You will get some that are as expensive as places as SH (worth it), and it's nothing you can do about it because it's the only one in town or they are all the same price.
Good luck on avoiding officers. If you find that you are 7 days close to the end of the month or between the first 7 days of a month, you should be very cautious. It doesn't matter if your driving reckless or have the best drivers award of the year. The cops in China choose a day and they will stop everyone to check for ID. They also love it when your breaking the law.