hmm, odd.

my understanding of these is very similar to flengs, with 了解 being the 'bigger' word, and 明白 the more 'throwaway' word. like flengs, i also learned them 'on the street'.

what's odd to me is how all the other responses (including from the venerable laotou) seem to have it the other way around. what's going on?

i think you've correctly identified the options. you talk of Beijing, but as this is a Kunming forum, i'll reply with Kunming in mind (perhaps it's one of the 'other cities' you're considering.)

i) frequent visa runs
this might not be as costly as you think, if you have the right kind of China visa (e.g. one year, but with stays of 60 or 90 days.) Kunming's a bus ride away from the Vietnam border at Hekou and the Lao border at Mohan. at both borders it's currently possible to leave and re-enter China without entering the other country (i.e. no visa cost). this plan is certainly troublesome, though.

ii) student visa
there are private language schools that offer student visas. a few years ago, one school here (KCEL) had a visa monopoly among the private schools - there's a lot more flexibility now. of course, you're then to some degree under the control of the school, with regard to attendance etc. and of course, you'll have to pay tuition to the school.

iii) work visa
teaching english is the only reliable source of work around here, and while you don't sound comfortable doing it, chances are you could make it work. being a non-native speaker, you will possibly find yourself at a disadvantage money-wise. i'd say you maybe also have some opportunity with your art qualifications, though this will likely require a lot more effort and creativity to turn into a visa.

i think you need to look at the numbers. the easiest option is likely to sign up at a private school, pay the money, get the visa, and attend class. the school is likely also a good source of study materials/tutors/study partners etc.

if you then need to work to offset your costs, you could make some money on the side (there is growing interest in learning european languages here, so maybe you can tutor something other than english.)

good luck.

the road's a mess, with intermittent bus service and lots of potential for delays. given the state it was in when i saw it (end 2010), i don't think it'll be complete yet.

that said, if you're a hardy and patient sort, you can probably take it on: Lancang-Menghai-Jinghong was smooth, the Lincang-Lancang section has the bad stuff.

the Midu/Jinggu route sounds interesting - the Jinggu-Lincang road was also under construction, but much closer to completion, and chances are voltaire and his crew are headed for the best of all possible worlds.

Lazy Book does have single malt whiskey, but i believe they're better equipped in the single malt whisky department. hic.

tailors: i know of small old-school tailoring outfits on Longxiang Jie (龙翔街), Beimen Jie (北门街) and Jianshe Lu (建设路) that will likely be able to sort you out, with a bit of careful guidance. i recommend donning khaki suit, pith helmet, and yelling (with a modicum of spittle ejection) - this ensures the natives never fail to understand.

have you considered rail freight? i wouldn't recommend it for the laptop, but sending the bulk of your stuff by freight might mean you're less encumbered and can travel a little more relaxed. CRE (China Rail Express) have an office near the train station.