You'll be okay - come first & you'll find your questions will be answered and make more sense after you see the scene.

La du zi is something I've had in many places, in & outside of China, including in London. The idea that 'real Yunnan food' is particularly likely to give you la du zi is, at least in my case, false - happens rather rarely, but it has happened to me (over a period of 10+ years) after eating in 'western', & western-run, restaurants in Kunming, as well as after eating in normal Kunming restaurants. Doesn't happen often. If you're getting la du zi frequently in Kunming, I think the problem might be your particular stomach, especially if you're new here. If you have a problem with spicy food, then you'll either get used to it or not - if not, don't order spicy dishes.
Laofengzi, it makes no sense to avoid all 'real Yunnan food' because there's a chance you might get the shits - there's always a chance, anywhere.
This whole thing is much exaggerated, & is not something that even crosses my mind, even in passing, when I go out to eat, which is daily.
Not at all amazing, but simply a fact of human physiology, that the human digestive tract is extremely adaptable.
You don't have to live in a bubble.

Being 'foreign' is something most people can handle, and, at least after awhile, doesn't have to lie there in the front of one's head alla time.

Well, all kinds of both foreign & Chinese bands, gigs virtually every night (rock in particular). Alei's has some jazz. Watch gokunming's daily calendar.

Maura, what kind of art & music scene are you referring to, and what kind of art classes?
Suggest you ask around Nordica & the Loft, in Kunming.
Anybody know what sort of art scene is functioning in Dali these days?

A western foreigner here who could fill you in best is Xiefei, who posts here sometimes - lots of contacts with Chinese artists over many years.

Would rather eat cheap here than in the UK - and cheap is cheaper here too.