User profile: ludwig

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Forums > Food & Drink > Dai restaurant

I like the one on Luofengjie: walk up from Green Lake towards the zoo/Yuantongjie and turn right into Luofengjie at the second intersection. It is about 100m in on the right hand side.

Forums > Travel Yunnan > Traveling to Weixi (维西) advice

Not sure what information you need, so this is what I can think of:

- Weixi is not really that far any more as a very much improved road connects it to Dali. Travel time to Dali is now less than five hours. There is a daily morning bus around 7:30 or so from Xiaguan's Northern Busterminal. Inaccurate (there is only one bus in the morning, plus a sleeper) time-table is here:
You can also go from Kunming's Xibu, but only by sleeper-bus.
- Transport from Weixi: see the time table here:

- Hotel situation in Weixi has much improved. When you arrive at the bus-station walk uphill (right out of the station) until you get to a round-about. Turn left and there come about 10 hotels along the street. The best one will set you back about Y120, but most are Y 50 for a standard room.

- Things to do in Weixi? In town not very much, I am afraid. But there is a good Lisu market on Saturdays at Xiaoweixi right on the Mekong. At the same place, a bit north, comes the Xiaoweixi Catholic Church. Travelling further north takes you to Kangpu, a dirt-poor township by the river. A bit north of it comes a turnoff which takes you up the hill to Kangpu's Tibetan Temple Shouguosi. Further north the next township is Yezhi, a Lisu township (not much there, they have an old Tusi compound that has been under 'renovation' for the last five years), but a bit south of it (and now developed as a tourist site) is a pretty Lisu village built entirely from wood on a steep slope. Cannot think of the name right now, but it is something like 'Everybody happy' (I guess the Chinese came up with that name). There is basic accommodation in Yezhi (the best in the guesthouse for the Three Rivers in Parallel National Park). Then comes Cizhong church on the other side of the river, some nice guesthouses there.
- Not much transport along the river apart from very few scheduled busses. For flexibility try hiring a minibus in Weixi: outside peak holidays it should cost about Y500 to Cizhong, during peak holiday much more if you can find a vehicle.

Forums > Living in Kunming > American Military Cemetery in Puzhao

If you use Google Earth or something (not Google maps, they are off by several hundred meters): N25.003099 E102.80293.

There is also a map at
(shameless plug, will only work in new browsers). The location of the stone marker is the brown dot.

Easiest way to get there is to find a taxi driver who knows where Puzhao 普照村 is (and is willing to drive there). Just before Puzhao is a turn which takes you on a rough road crossing the railway and going a little uphill towards some old factory building (hey this could be anywhere in China). That is as far as a car can go coming this way. On foot you then head uphill on an ill-defined path with the old factory to your right. You will already see a few Chinese graves. Once on top you will also find a better dirt road (there is somewhere a road connection to it, of course, but I do not know where), where you turn left and follow that path going slightly uphill. The new stone marker, put there just a few years ago, comes maybe 100-200m on your right. That's it. Do not expect any bones or skulls on the ground.


Forums > Travel Yunnan > Extending visa in Dali?

The PSB handling visas is in a large building on the western side of the highway leading from Xiaguan to Lijiang, just south of the Century School and north of the northern Xiaguan bus station. The building has a kind of an Eiffel tower on top.

Bus #8 from Xiaguan train station to Dali passes it. If coming from Dali on this bus, you pass the toll station and then a bit further down you will spot the eiffel tower coming up.

You will need your passport, some money, a photo. Your guesthouse in Dali should have registered you with the police (they can do that online) or you will have to bring a registration document from the local police station. They do check that you are registered locally.

Visas take two days, plus the new visa will start when you pick it up, not when you apply (as in KM)

You will not really need any help, it is all easy.


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The old ferry stopped working sometime last year, now you will have to go quite far west to the new ferry, which is a long slog (and a little difficult to find) unless you catch a ride with a local driver (try to hail any vehicle along the road - we managed to hitch a ride with some forestry van for 10Y from the old crossing to the new).

There is no fixed time-table for the 'ferry', it is operated by a few local guys who go home when they think no-one is coming anymore.

Daju does make a very nice stop, but as of last year they try to collect the mountain fee as well as the Lijiang old town fee also at the northern park entrance (when returning from Daju to Lijiang), amounting to a whopping 220Y or so. However, the mountain fee is not payable if you do not get off the bus inside the park area and technically the Lijiang fee should not be required if you do not stop in Lijiang, but continue on to, let's say, Xiaguan. Some people have avoided paying the fees by claiming to be locals (works less well for westerners).

The totally rushed (and a bit pointless) version of TLG would be to hire a car to take you Naxi Family Guesthouse and walk from there to Halfway GH, have lunch there and walk down to the road and onto Walnut Grove. There seem to be vehicles for hire at the guesthouses, who then could take you either back to Qiaotou or to the ferry to Daju.

However, my recommendation would be to stay on night at Naxi Family GH (few people do, even though it has the nicest afternoon views of the mountains), next morning to Halfway GH for lunch and continue on a bit to one of the smaller GH along the higher trail for another night. Halfway GH has become big business in the last decade and has lost its attraction.

Beatrix Metford, the wife of a British officer, wrote in her 1935 book "Where China Meets Burma":

"About ten years ago the British Government purchased a six-acre plot and started to build a consulate. It was a lovely site, just outside the west gate, with extensive views of the hills and mountains. The house was to be a stone building, comfortable but plain. It was bigger and more costly proposition than was realized. There were no workmen, no masons or carpenters, who had even seen a European house, so they all had to be trained, and when they were trained they struck for higher wages, and so it went on. [...] All tools, all fittings had to be carried by mule or coolie from Bhamo. At last, after eight years' work and vast expenditure, far beyond the original estimate, the consulate was finished and occupied.

It is a very plain house, painfully plain, with it smooth stone walls, its tin roof, its brown woodwork. But inside it is a bit of England. It is most beautifully fitted up and well furnished — a veritable oasis in the desert of mud and wood houses of the borderland. And in its spacious gardens, surrounded by a high stone wall, one can hardly realize one is in China..."

When I first found the building a few years back, the road it was on was called Huanxilu, the western ring road, which illustrates that for a long time its location was on the western outskirts of Tengchong. Today, Tengchong has sprawled beyond it. At that time it was still possible to climb up onto the second floor, where like in any proper English house there were also fireplaces, but everything else had been stripped out.

Two years ago we spoke to a Chinese guy there who seemed to have a certain interest in the building and he told us that the building had been the headquarters of the Japanese, which would not be totally surprising if it was the best-built and best-furnished place in town.

If one travels down to Lianghe, the next county town towards the Burmese border, there is the restored tusi yamen, where some iron-cast window parts still say 'Glasgow' on it if I remember correctly.

For those who want to find Shicheng on a map: 24.803N 102.58E.

There is a bus #33 from Kunming to Haikou, but it is not very frequent. Better to take one of the minibusses that run from the corner of Chunhui Lu 春晖路 and Renmin Xilu (this is just a little east of the big flyover). The fare to Haikou is Y8. From Haikou a tuk-tuk to Shicheng is 10Y, as the article says it is about 3km along a not-too-interesting road.

The bus to Haikou also passes the Xihua Wetlands mentioned in a previous post and Guanyinshan 观音山, a Bai village with a large Guanyin temple on a rocky outcrop overlooking Dianchi.



It is rare to find good approximations of western food anywhere in China and their lamb-chops (listed as lamb T-bone steak or so) were the best I have found so far. They came with good fries and the beer was cold. I liked the way that they serve the gloopy 'black-pepper sauce' separately, so one can just skip it. Pleasant and quick service too.


A pleasant modern eatery. The menu claims the chef worked for a large Chinese chain of Thai restaurants, but the Thai aspect of the food is difficult to find.

I gave the 'boneless chicken feet' a miss and had some spicy beef which while not bad was closer to the usual Sichuan fare than anything Thai. A dog under the table quickly lapping up any dropped food complemented the Sichuan experience.

The spring rolls were not bad though and together with a beer the bill came to Y58.

Easiest improvement would be better rice.


Easily the best bread to be found in Yunnan with friendly and efficient service. I have made detours to Dali just to pick up some bread on the way back to Kunming.