Hi Tiger, I'm just back from a week cycling between Tengchong and Lincang and have cycled on other corners of Yunnan as well.
There are hotels in almost every small town (even during Spring Festival I had no problem finding accommodation). If they can't register you they will take you to the police station, always very friendly and only a minor hassle. I carried a tent and camped one night, but more because I like than because I had to for lack of accommodation. If you want to be sure you can look at Amap or Ctrip and book ahead or put pins on some hotels once you know which town will be your destination for the day, it will save you time looking when you roll into town at the end of the day.
The roads are generally very good: I especially love the Chinese gradients, meaning you never have to push your bicycle uphill. The only exception being if you run into roadworks, which can be quite bad (muddy or dusty) and can be for pretty long distances so ruin a day or two. I would opt to jump on a bus if that were the case, and continue after the road works. But you certainly don't need mountain bike tires or suspension to cycle comfortably in Yunnan. Roads can be bad for cars and still very good for cycling as you can swerve around potholes easily.
Got the work visa! You can no longer directly go to the consulate, you have to go via Visa for China: bio.visaforchina.org/HKG2_EN/ , but it's much the same and they are close to the consulate, on 151 Gloucester road. They're difficult about passport pics and rejected most of the China-proof ones I had taken at the entry and exit bureau here. Also a bit random about how many copies you need of everything: I had two of everything but they only took one, my friend had one copy of everything and they needed two. I guess they want to make money from the photo booth and the copy machine. No news yet about for how much longer you can pick up work visa in Hongkong.
Lovely cafe. Big conservatory style windows with greenery instead of traffic outside, no noise and a nice cat. All in all a peaceful atmosphere and a good place to work or have a chat with a friend. They serve very good coffee (roasted on site) and tea. Didn't try the food.
I ended up at ER and later in a private room at the cardio department with quite scary symptoms. My friend who speaks fluent Mandarin was with me when we checked into the ER which was great as I don't speak Chinese very well. They were very quick to test and remedy the immediate symptoms and kept monitoring me throughout. I felt safe and well looked after. A day later I had an English speaking cardiologist who kept me well updated on what was going to happen next with regards to tests and results. The nurses were also very helpful and kind. I got thoroughly tested and got a sound diagnosis. The toilets are pretty disgusting (no paper, no soap, not clean) so I was happy to have my own clean bathroom once I moved to the private room. Friends and family have to bring food and sundries and help with washing etc as the hospital doesn't provide this.
I thought this was the most authentic and historic part of my visit to Lijiang. It was also really quiet and peaceful. I was staying in Shuhe so it was only a short bicycle ride away from my guesthouse. Together with a wander around a Baisha it makes for a beautiful and peaceful escape from busy Lijiang.
I have only heard stories about the 'old' Hump, but the new Hump is amazing! Beautiful clean, new and spacious dorms in a historical building that is really well-restored. The location and the views from the rooftop terrace are great, so even if you are a Kunming resident and not staying in the hostel it's good place to visit for a drink or something to eat.
Wonders of Yunnan is staffed by highly professional, friendly and knowledgeable international staff. They are passionate about travel in Yunnan and the rest of China and do everything possible to create the best experience. They understand their customers and communicate really well. I can highly recommend them!