src=http://www.gokunming.com

Summertime view of Fuxian Lake

Nestled in the most southwestern part of China, Yunnan Province is a land of stunning natural beauty and mysterious allure. As we quietly approach the end of summer, many cities in China, such as Shanghai, are still enduring scorching temperatures, hovering around 35 degrees Celsius. Therefore, even in mid-September, Yunnan remains an ideal summer retreat.

With its unique geographical location and pleasant climate, Yunnan has become an ideal destination to escape the urban heat and enjoy a cool summer. Tengchong City, with its temperate weather and geothermal hot springs, offers a soothing retreat. Puzhehei, picturesque lakes and karst landscapes provide a serene atmosphere, complemented by a gentle breeze. Yuxi, known for its mild and comfortable temperatures, is a hidden gem with tranquil surroundings. Stone Forest Geopark, with its unique stone forest and cool climate, invites exploration without the discomfort of summer heat. These locations not only promise cooler temperatures but also showcase the best of Yunnan's natural beauty and cultural heritage.

Tengchong: a tranquil spot in southwest China

Tengchong, a unique city located in the western part of Yunnan Province, is renowned for its rich natural landscapes, profound cultural heritage, and strategic geographical position bordering Myanmar. It serves as a vital gateway for China to South Asia and Southeast Asia and is also well-known for its historical connection to the Flying Tigers.

In summer, Tengchong's natural and cultural attractions present a captivating charm. The ancient forests and waterfalls of the Gaoligong Mountains (高黎贡山) are especially striking in the fresh air. Beihai Wetland (北海湿地) is adorned with blooming irises, creating a picturesque and poetic scene that delights nature enthusiasts. Heshun Old Town (和顺古镇) exudes a rich historical atmosphere, with blooming lotus flowers and lush greenery providing a tranquil retreat for visitors. Meanwhile, National Volcanic and Geothermal Park (火山地热国家地质公园) showcases unique geothermal wonders within the volcanic crater, with the summer climate making the exploration of volcanic landscapes and hot air balloon rides even more enjoyable and unforgettable.

Gaoligong Mountains (高黎贡山), known as the "Sanctuary of Life" and the "World Species Gene Pool," offers a refreshing escape during the summer months. A trek through these ancient forests in the summertime allows you to immerse yourself in the lush greenery, where vibrant foliage and blooming wildflowers create a vivid tapestry of colors. The cool, crisp air is invigorated by the gentle breeze, providing a welcome respite from the summer heat.

What's even more remarkable is that the heart of the Gaoligong Mountains is rich in geothermal resources, with natural hot springs scattered like stars. These mineral-rich springs nourish the land and offer a natural haven for travelers. Here, visitors can soak in the soothing embrace of the hot springs, experiencing warmth and comfort from the earth's core, while enjoying the stunning surrounding landscapes. It's a place where both body and mind can find complete relaxation and healing, making for a double feast of physical and spiritual rejuvenation.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Waterfall from Gaoligong Mountains

Beihai Wetland (北海湿地) is a stunning destination that blends natural beauty with rich ecological diversity. As the only volcanic barrier lake wetland in southwest China, it boasts a unique ecological environment and a well-preserved wetland ecosystem, making it an ideal place to explore the mysteries of nature and experience the beauty of ecology. Visitors can marvel at the massive grass mats formed by intertwined sedges, a testament to nature's craftsmanship. Additionally, Beihai Wetland serves as a habitat for numerous endangered plants and migratory birds, offering a rich experience for nature observation.

In early summer, Beihai Wetland resembles a vibrant natural painting. Iris flowers bloom in abundance, filling the area with a romantic purple hue, complementing the lush floating grass and creating a beautiful wetland landscape. Waterfowl nest and freely soar here, adding a lively spirit to the wetland. With a pleasant and cool climate, visitors can stroll along the boardwalks, enjoy the breathtaking scenery up close, engage in various water activities, and immerse themselves in the magical charm of nature.

Beihai Wetlands is located in Beihai Village and can be reached by taking bus route 13 from Tengchong City. Get off at the Beihai Wetlands stop, and from there, it's a short walk to the ticket center. The entrance fee is 110 yuan, and a boat ride costs 30 yuan per person.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Beautiful scenery of Beihai Wetland

Heshun Old Town (和顺古镇), with over 600 years of history, is renowned for its well-preserved Ming and Qing dynasty architecture (明清建筑) and unique frontier culture. However, Ming and Qing dynasty architecture is a highlight of its cultural heritage. The buildings feature traditional wooden structures with intricate carvings, curved eaves, and upturned roof corners, showcasing the craftsmanship of ancient Chinese artisans. Heshun is not only a famous hometown for overseas Chinese but is also known as a "paradise on earth" for its tranquil environment and leisurely pace of life, making it an ideal place to experience traditional culture and natural beauty.

By the pond in Heshun Old Town, the newly bloomed lotus flowers gently peek out, while dragonflies flutter and soar among them. The lush green scenery stretches out as far as the eye can see, with a gentle breeze carrying the faint fragrance of lotus blossoms. In the warmth of summer, the town's serene ambiance is enhanced by the vibrant colors and sounds of nature. The traditional architecture is bathed in sunlight, casting intricate shadows on the cobblestone streets. The peaceful atmosphere, combined with the refreshing scent of lotus blossoms, creates a perfect summer escape, where time seems to slow down, inviting you to savor every moment.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Peaceful time in Heshun Old Town

Tengchong's National Volcanic and Geothermal Park (火山地热国家地质公园), nestled within a volcanic crater, is a natural wonder featuring 99 volcanoes, with 97 located within the park's boundaries. As you ascend the stone steps, the summit rewards you with panoramic views of the ancient crater. Imagining the flames that once raged here millions of years ago adds to the awe of the experience.

During summer, the park offers a unique charm, with lush greenery contrasting against the rugged volcanic landscape. For an even more breathtaking perspective, a hot air balloon ride provides a bird's-eye view of the majestic volcanic craters, making for an unforgettable summer adventure.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

The magnificent view of the National Volcanic and Geothermal Park

The most efficient way to reach Tengchong, which is about 600 kilometers from Kunming, is by airplane. Tengchong has its own airport, and direct flights from Kunming take just about an hour, offering a quick and convenient option for travelers. Other modes of transportation, such as driving or taking a long-distance bus, are much more time-consuming.

Puzhehei: a summer oasis of water delights

Puzhehei (普者黑) means "a pond teeming with fish and shrimp" in the local Yi language, reflecting the area's rich natural resources. located in Qiubei County, within the Wenshan Prefecture in the southeastern part of the province, is a picturesque region known for its stunning karst landscape, clear lakes, and charming ethnic culture. Visitors can enjoy activities such as boating on the serene waters, exploring caves, and witnessing the vibrant traditions of the local Yi and Zhuang communities (彝族和壮族社区). The Yi people of Puzhehei are one of the indigenous ethnic groups of this land and are known for their association with fire. The Zhuang are one of the major ethnic groups in Puzhehei, known for their rich cultural heritage and traditional festivals.

Puzhehei is especially popular during summer, when lotus flowers bloom, creating a breathtaking scene. Surrounded by verdant mountains and clear waters, it transforms into a lively summer oasis.

Puzhehei has a high-speed train station, conveniently named after the area. Taking the high-speed train from Kunming is the most convenient way to get there, with a journey time of approximately 2.5 hours. And the train is punctual and efficient, making it ideal for short trips while also allowing you to enjoy the scenic views along the way.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Tourists boating in Puzhehei

Qinglong Mountain (青龙山), is a scenic destination renowned for its lush greenery, majestic peaks, and breathtaking views. Named "Qinglong," meaning "Green Dragon," the mountain's serpentine ridges are covered in dense forests that resemble a dragon stretching across the landscape. In summer, Qinglong Mountain transforms into a vibrant escape, with its cool, refreshing climate offering a retreat from the heat. The mountain is blanketed in verdant foliage and wildflowers, creating a serene atmosphere perfect for hiking along shaded trails, discovering hidden streams, and enjoying panoramic views. The rich biodiversity and tranquil environment make Qinglong Mountain an ideal destination for nature lovers and those seeking a peaceful getaway amidst Yunnan's natural beauty.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Overlooking the beautiful scenery on Qinglong Mountain

Yuxi: the serenity of Fuxian Lake

Fuxian Lake (抚仙湖), located in Chengjiang City, is renowned for its clear, glass-like waters and expansive waves. As the largest deep-water lake in China, Fuxian Lake offers a dynamic and captivating landscape where tranquil scenes seamlessly transition into powerful waves. Surrounded by mesmerizing mountain scenery, the lake's beauty is ever-changing, reflecting the clear blue sky and creating a serene yet exhilarating atmosphere. Steeped in historical and cultural significance, Fuxian Lake is not only a place of natural beauty but also rich in heritage. In the summer, the area comes alive with activities such as swimming, boating, and exploring the lakeside villages. Fuxian Lake's delightful weather and breathtaking scenery create the perfect backdrop for those looking to blend relaxation with adventure in nature's embrace.

Driving to Fuxian Lake in Yuxi is the most efficient transportation option. Fuxian Lake is about 60 kilometers from Kunming, and the drive typically takes 1 to 1.5 hours. Driving not only offers flexibility and convenience but also allows you to enjoy the scenic views along the way, making it a great choice for family or friends traveling together.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Fuxian Lake during summer time

Exploring the Stone Forest Geopark

Stone Forest Geopark (石林风景区), this area is the home of the legendary Ashima and features average temperatures between 16°C and 25°C. Shilin Scenic Area is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a global geopark, boasting unique karst formations that have formed over 270 million years. It's also a popular filming location, providing a dramatic natural backdrop for various TV dramas. Shilin Scenic Area is located in the Shilin Yi Autonomous County (石林彝族自治县), the Yi ethnic (彝族) minority is one of the ethnic groups in China with a long history and ancient culture. The entrance fee is 130 yuan, with a discounted rate of 65 yuan per child.

The most efficient way to travel to Shilin is by taking the high-speed train. You can catch a high-speed train from Kunming South Station to Shilin Station, with a journey time of about 1 hour. This option is fast and comfortable. Upon arriving at Shilin Station, you can easily take a taxi or local bus to reach the Stone Forest Geopark, making for a convenient and enjoyable travel experience.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Karst landform of Stone Forest Geopark

In the end, Yunnan offers a range of summer retreats where visitors can enjoy cool climates and stunning natural beauty. Whether seeking adventure or tranquility, these destinations promise an unforgettable experience.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Inside view from Leju Village

Nestled just a short drive from Kunming, Leju Village and its surrounding areas offer a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Visitors can explore ancient Yi architecture (古彝建筑), indulge in artisanal delights, and experience the harmony of multiple ethnic cultures, the Yi ethnic (彝族) minority is one of the ethnic groups in China with a long history and ancient culture. Key attractions include the tranquil Leju Village with its traditional rammed-earth houses, the immersive Leju Ethnic Cultural Park, the charming Leju Zhiyan Guesthouse, and the culinary adventures of Tuanjie Town, where rural life and fresh local cuisine create an unforgettable experience.

Discover the beauty of Leju Village

Leju Village (乐居村), a serene and picturesque ancient Yi village (古彝村) that feels like a pearl lost in the river of history. It nestled among lush green hills and clear waters, is a place where time seems to stand still. Each brick and tile of the village, built on the contours of the hills, exudes the charm of ages past and the harmony of nature.

The most humble yet striking structures here are the rammed-earth houses. These unadorned buildings, though lacking in ornate decorations, stand as testaments to the passage of time and the resilience of their builders. Leju Village offers a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, allowing visitors to slow down, relax, and enjoy the tranquility and beauty of this ancient settlement. You don't need a guidebook to explore Leju Village. Simply wander along the stone-paved paths and let the village's timeless beauty unfold before you. The old streets and alleys, with their dark-tiled roofs and earthy yellow walls, form a warm and welcoming picture of daily life. Amid the lively atmosphere, you'll find a peaceful and enduring charm.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

A beautiful view of Leju Village from an aerial perspective

Jiuxi Handmade Bread: savoring time in every bite

Wandering through the cobblestone paths of Leju Village, you can't help but be drawn by the irresistible aroma of freshly baked bread. This scent leads visitors to a quaint courtyard with a golden sign reading "Obsessive Dough Kneading Disorder" (重度搓面症患者) – a humorous and inviting tagline for Jiuxi Handmade Bread (九犀手作面包).

As you delve deeper into the village, the rich smell of bread becomes more intoxicating. The blend of pure wheat and artisanal baking creates a warm and inviting scene. Jiuxi Handmade Bread is a shining gem of Leju Village, seamlessly blending tradition and modernity, nature and culture.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Yummy bread picture from Jiuxi Handmade Bread

Each loaf of bread here is more than just food – it's a reflection of a deep passion for a better life. From selecting premium ingredients to hand-kneading the dough, from precise fermentation to careful baking, every step is infused with the utmost dedication and love for quality bread.

Stepping into the shop feels like discovering a treasure trove of bread. The array of breads, with their golden crispy crusts and soft, cloud-like interiors, is mesmerizing. Some are studded with various dried fruits, each bite offering a delightful surprise. The warm, inviting aroma permeates the air, allowing visitors to momentarily forget the worries and noise of the outside world.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Baking bread from outdoors

Exploring Leju Ethnic Cultural Park

Another must-visit treasure in Leju Village is the Leju Ethnic Cultural Park (乐居民族文化园) in Kunming. The park is a living history book, with every corner waiting to be explored by those who appreciate cultural heritage.

One highlight is the cultural heritage exhibition room, which encapsulates 600 years of Leju's history. The room showcases over 300 precious artifacts, from ancient production tools to vibrant ethnic costumes. Each item tells the story of the Yi people's wisdom and hard work, offering a glimpse into their authentic and simple past.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Inside view of Leju Ethnic Cultural Park

Walking through the park feels like traveling through time, witnessing the industrious hands that wove everyday life and the beautiful attire that displayed ethnic pride. The park is especially stunning in spring, with blooming flowers and a 26-meter-long embroidered scroll depicting scenes from "Along the River During the Qingming Festival," reflecting the meticulous craftsmanship of the artisans.

Additionally, the park features unique button art and masterful calligraphy and paintings. Visitors can admire these intricate pieces, further enriching their experience of Leju's cultural and aesthetic heritage.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Cultural heritage exhibition room from Leju Ethnic Cultural Park

Relaxing in Leju Zhiyan Guesthouse

The entire building complex of Leju Zhiyan Guesthouse (乐居之眼名宿) is built along the hillside, facing west to east. The owners have integrated elements of Leju's landscapes into the courtyard design, using local stones and plants to create a miniaturized version of the natural world. Within the courtyard, visitors can feel the essence of the countryside, with small streams flowing and wildflowers blooming along rustic paths.

In the morning, you're gently awakened not by the harsh sound of an alarm but by the melodious birdsong and the gentle murmur of flowing water. This natural symphony is a refreshing way to start the day, leaving you feeling revitalized and serene.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Morning view of the Leju's Eye Guesthouse

Around the tranquil courtyard, you can peruse the well-stocked bookshelves, enjoying the smell of old pages as you bask in the afternoon sun. Alternatively, you can curl up in the tea room with a cup of fragrant tea, letting your thoughts wander freely. The guesthouse also offers an entertainment room and a mini cinema, where you can challenge friends to a game of pool or immerse yourself in a film, adding a touch of excitement to your stay.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Overview of Leju's Eye Guesthouse

A culinary adventure in Tuanjie Town

A visit to Tuanjie Town (团结乡) offers a feast for the senses, starting with the famous "Huajiao Chicken (花椒鸡)." The moment you step into this hidden gem, you're greeted by the sight of slowly turning windmills and expansive green lawns, creating a serene pastoral scene. This is not just a food haven, but also an ideal spot for photos and connecting with nature.

The menu features an array of rustic delights, including crispy fish hot pot, pumpkin blossoms, and apple pancakes. The fresh, farm-to-table flavors are a true culinary delight, offering a taste of simplicity and romance in every bite.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Crispy fish hot pot from Tuanjie Town

In this idyllic corner of the world, you can let your mind rest and your taste buds revel in the rich, peppery goodness of Huajiao Chicken. At Tuanjie Town's Peach Blossom Fishing House (桃花源渔家), a local restaurant, you can embark on an impromptu countryside adventure and savor the joys of rural life.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Peach Blossom Fishing House during spring time

Here in Leju Village, Tuanjie Town, old houses, tiled eaves, traditional kilns, and quaint coffee shops coexist harmoniously, bringing new life to this ancient settlement. The village, once quiet and forgotten, has become a new treasure on the outskirts of Kunming. Are you ready to enjoy a leisurely weekend in Leju Village? don't forget to share your unique experiences!

Getting There

Leju Village is about 36 kilometers from downtown Kunming, and it takes approximately 45 minutes by car. For public transportation, you can take bus C61 from West Bus Station (西站公交站) to Tuanjie Town Station (团结乡站), then walk 1.4 kilometers, with taking around an hour and a half to getting there. Parking in the Leju village is convenient, and entry is free.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

The river during rainy season is a sight to behold at the Tiger Leaping George (image credit: Yereth Jansen)

Tiger Leaping Gorge in northwest Yunnan is renowned for its stunning scenery and rugged hiking paths. In my first article, I introduced the Bamboo Forest Path, a scenic route in Tiger Leaping Gorge that is now closed due to a washed-out bridge. This second installment explores the less-traveled Luke-Haba route. This challenging trail, suitable for experienced hikers, offers breathtaking views of the gorge and the adjoining snow mountains of Haba and Jade Dragon. Along the way, trekkers will navigate remote, steep paths and stay in rustic guesthouses, providing an adventurous alternative to the main tourist routes.

Extending the classic Gorge Trek

The classic trek through world-renowned Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡) takes two days for most folks. At the end of the trail, enthusiastic trekkers may wish to prolong the experience.

You can continue your adventure by following the Luke-Haba Route. It's the natural extension of the classic trek, adding another day or two to the journey.

Trek overview

Let's start with an overview of the complete trek.

You should begin at Qiaotou (桥头镇), the origin point of the classic trek. Spend the first night in the gorge at a guesthouse of your own choosing. On day two, continue hiking through the gorge to the terminus at Tina's Guest House, twenty-three km from the start. For details of the hike be sure to read Dan Siekman's excellent guide.

To continue with the extended trek you initially have two choices: (A) travel on to Walnut Garden Village (核桃园), or (B) travel to Luke's Hostel located above the village. Both options follow paved roads for a distance of two and five kilometers, respectively.

On day three, ascend to a ridge floating high above the gorge at 3,200 meters. The birds-eye view up and down the length of the gorge and across the Jinsha River (金沙江) makes the effort worthwhile. Then descend to Ennu Village (恩努村) north of the gorge. Some may wish to end the trek here. The distance for the day is 13 km. In my experience, the hike takes 6½ hours not including rest breaks.

On day four (for those who continue), a morning hike takes you to the agricultural community of Haba Village (哈巴村), famous as the gateway to the fabled Haba Snow Mountain (哈巴雪山). The distance traveled is 8 km in 2½ hours.

Trail difficulty

The classic trek from Qiaotou to Tina's presents a moderate walk for folks in reasonable condition. However, the stretch from Luke's Hostel and beyond is more challenging, both physically and navigation-wise. There is substantial elevation gain (1,000 and 430 meters over two days) and the trail is sometimes obscure. The rugged trail is not suitable for children. Hiring a guide is recommended (for tips on hiring a guide see the end of this article).

Experienced trekkers can complete the journey from Luke's to Haba Village in one day. But that makes for a very long day of 21 km and perhaps ten hours or more. Stopping at Ennu is more manageable for most folks.

Walnut Garden Lodging

Starting from Qiaotou, you will likely reach Walnut Garden Village on the afternoon of day two. The most convenient place to spend the night is Ancient Luke Hostel, located an hour's walk above the village. Alternatively, you could stay at a hostel in the village. Popular places include Sean's, Chateau de Woody, and Tibetan guest houses. One might even consider Tina's Guest House back down the road a bit.

Ancient Luke Hostel (古道栌克青年旅舍), situated at 2,360 meters, offers stunning views and a peaceful environment.

Sean's Spring Guest House (夏山泉客栈) is known for its long-standing presence in the gorge. The owner, Sean (夏山泉), is an activist for the preservation of the gorge and speaks English.

At the time of writing, Chateau de Woody is closed while a new hostel is under construction. For inquiries, contact 13988756901.

Tina's Guest House (中峡国际青年旅舍) is a popular spot among trekkers and the terminus of the classic trek. It is managed by Tina (田永棋) and her family, who speak English.

Getting to Luke's Hostel

Wherever you stay, you'll have to hoof it up to Luke's Hostel, the starting point of the Luke-Haba Route. A guest house can arrange a shuttle if you don't want to pound the pavement.

There are three ways to reach Luke's Hostel. The Bamboo Forest Path (竹林小路) is included for completeness but is currently closed due to a washed-out bridge.

1) Approach Road

From Tina's Guest House, cross the Shen Chuan Bridge (神川大桥) and follow the Tiger Leaping Gorge highway toward Walnut Garden Village. After 1½ km turn left onto a paved side road which ascends the mountain slope. From the signed intersection it is 3.2 km to Luke's Hostel. Higher up, a signed path provides a rough shortcut to the hostel. If walking, plan on 1½ hours with an elevation gain of 350 meters.

2) From Sean's Guest House

The village of Walnut Garden sits 2 km down the road from Tina's (away from Qiaotou). Here there are several guest houses, among which Sean's Guest House is one of the better known. Immediately on the left side of the building, a series of steps lead up to a rough path. The path may be poorly marked but you should end up on the approach road described above. The hike from Sean's to Luke's takes one hour with a gain of 370 meters.

3) Bamboo Forest Path (closed)

This rough and wild path (no roads!) provides the most scenic route by far, passing through an impressive canyon with waterfalls. Unfortunately, the route is no longer passable since the ravine bridge halfway up got washed out in 2021. Zhao Yin (赵银), owner of Luke's Hostel, plans to replace it when funds become available. For path details, see the previous article in this series.

Luke-Haba route trail description

Starting out from Luke's Hostel, head north on a path that ascends in half an hour to Thousand Year Walnut Forest (千年核桃林). A large boulder bears the name painted in Chinese and English. The walnut trees bloom in spring and the nuts ripen in autumn.

After a few more minutes, the trail forks where an arrow painted on a rock indicates you should bear right. The trail continues with little elevation gain, crosses dry drainage, and begins a steady ascent heading east.

Empty Glad Platform

The climb tops out at an open spot called Empty Glad Platform (空欢喜观景台), elevation of 2,680 meters. Time to this point is an hour and twenty minutes. A short spur leads to a wonderful viewpoint overlooking the gorge, one of the finest in all the realm. The view extends down the entire length of the gorge.

The peculiar name invites speculation. Perhaps it's about that feeling of space beneath your feet. Beyond this point, the path is rarely marked and sometimes hard to follow. You may encounter goats wandering about in search of grazing opportunities.

The trail turns north and ascends steadily across steep slopes through stunted forest, followed by a stretch without much elevation gain. Forty minutes above Empty Glad Platform, pass through a tiny notch and navigate a wall by a ledge of built-up stones.

Soon after that, the trail forks, and the Luke-Haba Route continues left. The right fork descends, leading to a massive slide that obliterates the trail, forcing its abandonment.

Shortly beyond the fork, the path reaches a gulley filled with rocks and loose sand, which makes for tough going. Ascend the gully for a hundred meters or so and exit the gully on the right.

High Point

The path continues ascending across sections of sand and rocks, then switchbacks more steeply up sandy ground, before finally traversing right to the highest point of the Luke-Haba Route. The time to the high point is three hours.

Here at an elevation of 3,200 meters, there are limited views up to the East Peak of Haba Snow Mountain. Looking down, the expansive view takes in the Jinsha River and plains around Daju Village (大具乡). Local residents rave about the sunrise from this spot with the gorge in deep shadow.

From the high point head northeast, descending very steeply over sandy ground through open forest without a well-defined path. You might encounter a ridge. Follow it for a short distance before turning left off the ridge and continuing the steep descent in a northeasterly direction. If you encounter a path coming in from the right, that was the old trail now abandoned due to the landslide mentioned earlier.

Watership Tank Meadow

Further down, the old trail turns into a well-beaten track with switchbacks, a welcome respite from the unremittingly steep slope above. The trail descends to a meadow with the odd name of Watership Tank (水览槽观景台), 45 minutes after leaving the high point. Yaks graze placidly among the stone walls here.

Tucked away at the upper edge of the meadow sits a yak herders hut. The roof leaks in various spots while inside chaos reigns, the bunks covered in rank rodent offerings. There is a convenient spot for a fire, however, complete with a pot holder.

The name Watership Tank derives from the water trough outside the hut. A pipe from a spring higher up brings down a trickle of water.

Descending to the bottom edge of the meadow, the Luke-Haba Route enters the forest. The trail soon forks, with the right branch leading to Benxi Village (本习村) in the lower section of Tiger Leaping Gorge. You should take the left fork, which descends to and crosses the bottom of a drainage, followed by a short ascent to a gate. Be sure to leave the gate open or closed as you find it.

Turning the corner

The path traverses gradually downhill along the north side of the drainage. You will spot a quarry across the valley with a road zig-zagging down to Benxi. The trail turns left at around 2,500 meters elevation, "turning the corner" and putting you in the valley proper of Ennu Village. A long traverse northwest follows, with little elevation gain or loss.

Eventually, the path turns northeast and crosses a meadow (27º19'27"N, 100º10'59"E) at an elevation of 2,500 meters. The path enters the forest and heads east for a few minutes, arriving at a hut falling into ruins.

src=http://www.gokunming.com

Meadow at an elevation of 2,500 meters

Water Trough Junction

From the hut ruins, the trail turns north and makes a short descent to the bottom of the valley