Xuanquanzhi Posthouse, Dunhuang, Jiuquan - This recent UNESCO site is located just off the highway from Dunhuang to Guazhou at exactly the 134.5 km marker. There is a small dirt road that leads to the recently completed fenceline and visitors center.

As this is the site of ancient ruins there is nothing visible except for the stone markers in place. In time there will probably be some type of museum so that visitors can be charged the usual fees. The ticket office opened when they heard us walking about but we were able to take pictures of the stone markers withour paying any fees.

This site is NOT accessible from the highway road from Guazhou to Dunhuang - only from Dunhuang to Guazhou.

I am glad I visited and I have my keepsake photos before UNESCO locks this place down.

Suoyang City Ruins, (Anxi) Guazhou, Jiuquan - This recent UNESCO site is located about 60 from Guanzhou.

On the way to this site one will pass the Po Cheng Zi ruins which are a historical and cultural site of Guanzhou. It is located right off the road in Chang Le Village. FREE to all and if you look carefully, the fence has been cut down in a small place and one can get in to take pictures.

Continue for 30 km and you will reach Suo Yang. The tickets already have the UNESCO logo and entrance will cost you 80 RMB + 20 RMB for a golf cart that will take 10 people into the site. We waited for 30 minutes until there were exactly 10 passengers as the Green golf cart will go no where with less than 10 plus a tour guide.

Our taxi driver who has been there before was sent on a detour from the hardtop road to a gravel road that was 10 km longer. The reason is that this new UNESCO site has closed the main road as it runs directly through the middle of the site.

The tour guide told us that last year the visitors center was a nasty little wooden shack but now they are housed in the brand new visitors center. First things first. The gravel road that is 10 km longer is NOT important but the visitors cebter is.

The 10 passengers are squeezed into the green golf cart and driven around the site where we were fortunate to stop for 10 minutes at 2 locations. Of course we had to walk in the wooden path provided. For those who had the foresight to sit on the sides of the cart, we were able to get some pictures as the golf cart sped around the trail in a hurry. I am sure the bothersome tourists had disturbed the driver from his nap.

The tour took less than 1 hour. I was lucky to get about 50 good pictures in total.

As the reader can tell, I am disgusted witht the UNESCO model of how they do biznezz. The tour guide and taxi driver both told us the tickets were 20 RMB before UNESCO arrived. I am gald I got the T-shirt before the price doubles again. Check another UNESCO off my list.

Yu Lin Ku (Grottoes) - In the same direction as Suo Yang from Guazhou. These grottoes are currently under renovation. They are building a gate 5 km away so no one can get in. We drove in to the parking lot directly above the grottoes. Began taking pictures as we walked in. Can only get pictures of the outside as all the grottoes are now locked - same as Mogao. The outdoor area is very nice because one can STILL walk freely along the cliffs and see the outside of the grottoes as well as the temples. There is a river running through the Gorge and cliff on the opposite side of the grottoes is very nice.

As we approached the ticket office (55 RMB - foreigners + 40 RMB - chinese) we saw a man who directed us the ticket counter. We told him we were waiting for our party to arrive so we continued to take pictures. After we finished our pictures we left.

This can never happen at Mogao as one never gets anywhere near this place without a ticket. Our tickets at Mogao were inspected 4 different times.

I see the end of these grottoes very soon as the gate is currently under construction right now so tourists will be stopped 5 km away.

These grottoes were very nice and I would have gladly paid 55 RMB to actually see something as opposed to Mogao. Visit while you still can - for free like me or pay 55 RMB.

Yumen Pass, Dunhuang, Jiuquan - I really enjoyed this UNESCO (Silk Road) site although it is just a big pile of rocks and sand. 40 RMB - 1.5 hours from Dunhuang.

Han Dynasty Wall - just 1 km from Yu Men Pass. Also very nice and is included in the ticket to Yumen. FREE.

Yadan Geo Park - 50 RMB + 70 RMB for Green bus - beautiful landscapes. Final destination after Yumen and Han Wall. 3 hour drive and then 3 hours back to Dunhuang. Disappointed by the way people are treated in green bus. Made to wait to save on bus + driver and 10 minutes per each of the 4 stops. Can not see anything while in the bus because chinese MUST close the curtains to preserve their beautiful white skin.

Yang Guan - 60 km from Dunhuang. Also included in package tours (transport only) of Yumen and Yadan but it is NOT in the same direction. 40 RMB + 10 RMB for green golf car. Only one pile of rocks and sand so they made this fake museum with a few trinckets to make you feel good.

Xuanquanzhi Posthouse, Dunhuang, Jiuquan - nothing there yet except for the fence, ticket office and stone markers. A new UNESCO site of the Silk Road.

Mogao Caves, Dunhuang, Jiuquan - Has been a UNESCO site for many years now. Very disappointing for 200 RMB. I will tell everyone who asks to skip this site and buy some postcards.

Suoyang City Ruins, Guazhou, Jiuquan - Another new Silk Road UNESCO site that has already began to mistreat the tourists by overcharging, making them wait, and restricting any movement in the area. 80 RMB + 20 for Green Golf cart.

Dunhuang Old Town - run, avoid, danger Will Robinson. A complete waste of time and money. 40 RMB plus transportation costs. Totally fake - actually made with styrofoam - not kidding. Used as a movie set for cheap chinese movies.

HOTELS - in 12 years I have never made a reservation with any hotels anywhere in China. We usually stay at Home Inn, Super 8, or 7 Days Inn. We soon found out that in Gansu it is not business as usual. Many of these places do NOT accept foreigners so we actually had to call and ask and make reservations for the first time. Same thing in Xinjiang. Unbelieveable.

CAMPO: A question about Mogao Caves, Dunhuang. I went there in 2006 and like you was disappointed.

Tourists were not allowed to carry anything inside the gate. Everything had to be checked. Women could carry a purse, men were allowed one bottle of water. No cameras, no picture taking. I had major misgivings when I checked my backpack and camera gear.

Foreigners were forced into one group and we waited until the group was filled.

Do they still do it this way?

Geez - we purchased tickets the day prior for the first movie at 0745. Ticket sales are for every hour after that. I was the only laowai in the group of 200. When we purchased the tickets I was asked to pay 25 extra RMB for English and I refused so this is how they know who is a laowai or not so I was able to camouflage my self.

Before the movies began we were told we can not video or take pics of either movie. One video is IMAX.

We were NOT told to give up our bags. This happened in Vietnam when visiting HCM tomb so we did not go in because of this procedure.

At the visitors center people are lined up outside and tickets checked as you go in for the movie, to make sure you are there at the right time. If you arrive early or late you are asked to wait. By appointment only. I read an artice about how scenic spots will have limits as to how many visitors are allowed inside so this is the way things will eventually become, especially during peak season.

Once you get inside there are 2 lines. One for 8am show other for 0745 show. Again tickets are checked in this line to make sure u go to correct time show as there are 2 diff theaters.

After 2 movies everyone heads outside for buses to Grotto 15 km away. Again you must get inline and people are separated into 20 man groups. Groups of 20 must wait in intervals until they get inside and in their respective grottoes then next group is sent in.

I admit I am spoiled because I travel very often but never on weekends or holidays so I usually have the place to myself regardless of where we go. My travel experience is enjoyable, inexpensive anf fun. UNESCO sites are a diff beast. They are always crowded. They are NOT to be enjoyed, they must be endured and you pay through the nose for it.

This site is very disappointing because you can not take any pics inside the grottoe (understandable) so all one is left with is to take some pics of the side of the cliff with doors covering each entrance. I was able to get some nice pics of the face of the cliff while evryone was inside the grottoes. Problem is that after 2 grottoes of 5 minute lectures people do not stay inside and hang around outside. You can just see the faces of the people there, completely bored and frustrated and cheated out of 200+ RMB. The following day while having dinner near our hotel we overheard a couple complaining about Mogao - funny!

Unfortunately, this is the way of all tousrist attractions in years to come. I mentioned a few locations before that act like UNESCO sites but are not.

For those who enjoy photography they know that one must get a proper angle for a good picture. When you are caged in a 1 meter wide wooden path you lose the ability to get a good angle shot or you are forced to take pics directly into the sunlight.

CAMPO: Wow, a really different experience these days. It does seem the key part in going to the grottoes is the same:

No photos
Tightly controlled
Limited viewing in the grottoes with uninspired commentary
and

very rushed.

In the oldest grottoes, the Buddha has a brown face (I know why but the commentaries were very Chinese oriented). When I asked why, I was told the paintings were old and the paint had changed color. I remarked that I thought it was because Buddha was Indian but I was immediately corrected: The Buddha was Chinese.

Thanks Hugo.

I will have more updates on Gansu as soon as I return from Xinjiang. I will head down Jiuquan, Zhangye, and Wuwei in Gansu. Then back to Lanzhou to take a tour of Qinghai Lake in Qinghai.

From there I will stay in Lanzhou to see more sights before heading back to Kunming.

Took the K (slow) train from Urumqi to Jiuquan. Departed Urumqi at 1700 and arrived at Jiuquan at 0900 (16 hours). We got sleeper beds so did not need a hotel for the evening and arrived at a good time.

Jiuquan is a small city with old buildings. There are 2 train stations now, one for regular (JQ Zhan) trains the other for high speed D (JQ South) trains. Buses from both stations will get you downtown for 1 or 2 RMB.

Not much to see other than Zhong Gu Lou and the JQ Park.

On to Zhangye tomorrow via high speed train (1 hour).

Bonne route!