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For anybody who's never spent Christmas Eve in Kunming before, it tends to involve massive amounts of artificial snow shot out of aerosal cans, especially in the Nanping Jie / Jinma Biji Fang area. Don't wear your nicest clothes, especially if you're conspicuously foreign, and don't go out if you can't tolerate some fumes and fake snow being sprayed on you.

Here's some photos from last year: news.kunming.cn/km-news/content/2010-12/24/content_2378789.htm

I have lived in Kunming for 4 years but have never been to the Tiger Leaping Gorge, it sucks and if they are working on the road and shit, I want to do it as soon as I get back to Yunnan again in March. You guys mentioned a night bus to Shangri-La, which bus station does it start from?

[UNF]

Wow, "the gold tinged light" Julie, it is not your imagination, I visited Kunming for the first time in 2010 and I was fascinated by the different "golden" light. I am from California, and it is different in the U.S. and Hawaii as well. The light is different in Kunming, I don't know why, but I thought it was more golden. I spent 3 weeks there travelling around, and everyday I would look around at some point and think "the light is different here". "It is kind of golden". I too and a visual artist, so maybe that has something to do with it. maybe our perceptiveness of light or noticing subtle things like that is different than most. I came back to the U.S. and told several people that the light is different there, it's more golden. But everyone just looked at me funny. Now I know I was right since you mention the gold tinged light. It must not be a false memory because it is still there, and probably always will be. I want to go back.

@SSeminari Yeah man, it started out innocently enough about a year ago when there were only a few people out from time to time but in recent months it really has gotten way too out of control. And the fact that the Chengguan leave at the same time every day only encourages more and more people to come as they know it will be fine after 9ish. Now I think there are more illegal vendors in w.h.x. than legal ones hahaha! It makes it harder for anyone to get in and out of w.h.x. and makes being in w.h.x. more hectic, I suppose it's possible that scares some people from coming into the alley indirectly affecting Sal's business but really it's the noise, garbage and the fact that it's difficult to walk around anymore that is the most dissapointing about all this. The neighborhood has been hijacked. I liked it better when w.h.x. was quiter. Great chatting with you all about this.

[UNF]

Wow, congratulations to Simon to being the first person in the history of internet discourse to actually read somebody else's argument and change his mind based on it's logic. A man among boys :)

Kris - hmm, after reading your post, I think you're right. Originally, I was only in support of the impromptu night market because I thought it wasn't doing any harm, and because it was making it more difficult for cars to pass through, and might eventually lead to fewer cars on the street.

However, after reading your posts and seeing the reality for myself on the streets, it's becoming evident that they are indeed a nuisance to nearly everyone, including residents and shopkeepers, and that they're bringing in _more_ cars, not less. How has the market affected Salvador's sales?

@ hedgepig - Yeah, I've noticed that on the street near paul's as well. Hopefully it is a first step to making the entire alley pedestrian, but somehow I doubt it. They're probably only limiting traffic in that area because there is a school there and a playground, and they deem cars unsafe, whereas wenhua xiang is still considered ok for cars. I think it might be expecting too much for the authorities to realize the value of a car-free area?

[UNF]

'Unfortunately, I feel I'm losing the connection with Kunming due to the, unhappy — I have to say — city plan, which has turned Kunming into a stranger for me."

I visit Kunming for the first time in early 2005, its only 5 years ago now but the changes are really drastically!!! I can fully understand Julie.
All the typical chinese lifestyle is nearly gone and in no time all will be like an american / european city... sad thing.

If you are heading to Lijiang, there are a variety of events over Christmas, including a Christmas Eve and Christmas party at the new LMC, upstairs in Water Nymph, on Bai Sui Fang near the Big Stone Bridge in the centre of Lijiang Old Town.

24 and 25 December
from 7pm
enjoy free gingerbread and speculaas
plus Christmas pizza, egg nog, white russians, hot chocolate and mulled wine
and live piano music from 8pm

Also Christmas Brunch at Mama Mia in Shuhe, and Christmas Dinner at Nordic Delight in Lijiang Old Town.

[UNF]

I've just watched four or more chengguan drive past with a look of despair on their faces at seeing crowds of youth standing next to rolled up mats and dubiously parked cars (which they must now are full of dodgy merchandise). I must say that I sympathise with them a little - it must be terrible knowing that you're a toothless watchdog, a beast with no balls.

[UNF]

By the way, the gorge is free of the 70 yuan entry fee and barred to tour buses through the end of this year because of road maintenance.

there has recently been car parking enforcement in the area near Paul's store. there's been a baoan (or two) stationed just to the WHX side of Paul's for a couple of months, and while i've not confirmed the details, it appears parking in that area is now restricted to residents/permit holders. there's also been some work on the hardware (some planters removed, repairs to the road surface) to make a little more parking space.

last i saw was that the mechanical barrier was sawn or broken off (someone drove through it? they realised they were squeezing bike/diandongche/pedestrian traffic into a metre-wide space?) and that they'd started placing plastic traffic cones in the road instead.

while thus far it seems like half measures, it does seem like someone is thinking about these issues. throw in a sprinkling of consistent, reasonable enforcement from the chengguan and the traffic police, and we might be getting somewhere. there's hope.