For most people living in Kunming, Dali is known primarily as a place to go to chill out and relax. What is not-so-well-known is that Dali also has a lot of great hiking to offer hikers of all levels.

The Cangshan (苍山) mountain range on the west side of Dali Old Town (大理古城) is accessible by cable car or the old-fashioned way: hoofing it to the top. The hike up takes approximately two hours whereas the cable car takes about half an hour and costs thirty yuan a one-way ride. The cable car operates from 8:30 am to 6:30 pm - make sure to give yourself enough time to get back to the cable car station if you are planning on taking it back down to Dali. Last year the Cangshan area was designated a 'scenic spot' by the local government, so anyone ascending the mountains - on foot or cable car - must pay 30 yuan to enter the mountain area.

Whether you take the cable car or hike up the mountain, it is advisable to first hit Zhonghe Temple (中和寺), which in addition to a temple features a small Bai-style restaurant and a small square with a is a beautiful view of Erhai Lake as well as plenty of stores to stock up on food and water. It is also at the head of several trails that stretch throughout the mountain range.

Hiking options in the Cangshan range include trips to lakes, waterfalls, mountain peaks and temples. For those looking for a leisurely hike the Cloud Pass is an easy choice. The stone path is fairly flat and winds around six mountains, past five waterfalls and three temples. There are also side trails jutting out from the Cloud Pass near the waterfalls that lead upward to clear pools, more waterfalls and excellent vistas. Stretching about twenty kilometers, Cloud Pass can also provide a nice workout. With road signs and plenty of other hikers there is no danger of losing your way.

If you plan on doing one of the more difficult hikes, it is a good idea to check in with the employees at the Higherland Inn. They are very knowledgable about trails in the area and offer free maps and information for hikers. The hike to the summit of Zhonghe, the second highest mountain in the area at 4,100 meters, generally takes nine hours for the round trip hike, so it is recommended to stay at the inn for a night to get an early start. In some places the trail to the top is a little overgrown but it is not difficult to follow. Along the way bright green bamboo forests and clear mountain streams make one feel far from the human world.

After hours of hiking with no signs of civilization, the summit boasts a large TV tower with 20 full-time employees (who are often inside watching TV). This is a great place to take a lunch break and relax a bit before the hike down. The TV tower employees are very kind and enjoy talking to passersby. Upon arriving, it is common to be greeted with a round of hellos from the workers. If you have a tent and want to stay up top for a while, there is a trail on the Cangshan ridge that can be taken north or south, with beautiful views and small mountain lakes dotting the way.

The best time to hike above Dali is late summer and early autumn as to avoid the rainy season. It is advisable to bring some warm clothes whenever you hike in the area because cold weather can move in quickly on the mountaintops.

Top image: Higherland Inn

Tags: Cangshan, Dali, Erhai Lake, Higherland Inn, hiking, travel, Zhonghe Temple

Every year hundreds of thousands of Chinese and foreign travelers pass through Yunnan's popular tourist towns including Lijiang, Dali and Jinghong. In addition to these destinations, Yunnan is full of emerging areas that also deserve a visit such as Shaxi (沙溪).

Shaxi is located in a valley in the north of Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, about a seven-hour drive from Kunming. Scattered throughout the valley are sixteen Bai minority villages. The population of these villages ranges from a couple hundred to over a thousand in the main village of Sideng.

Shaxi has a long history that dates back to its role as a trade station on the Tea and Horse Caravan Route, (茶马古道, Chama Gudao), also known as the South Silk Road. The Tea and Horse Caravan Route, which centered on Yunnan province and connected China, Tibet, Myanmar and parts of Thailand and Laos. Although the route's influence has faded and Shaxi is no longer used as a trade station, evidence of its history can be seen throughout the valley, most obviously through architecture and signs that read 'Home of the Teahorse'.

Until recently Shaxi's architecture was falling into ruin. In 2001 the World Monuments Fund listed Shaxi as one of the 100 most endangered sites in the world. This prompted action to restore Shaxi's architecture and protect its cultural heritage. The Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Zürich (ETH) and the People's Government of Jianchuan County jointly established the Shaxi Rehabilitation Project (SRP).

Since its creation the SRP has successfully renovated many of Shaxi's most important buildings. Paintings that had been hidden beneath dirt for over a hundred years are once again visible to the public. Currently the temple in the old market of Sideng village is being repaired and is scheduled to open soon. The marketplace that the temple is located in is one of the main projects for the SRP. Along with the temple, the SRP renovated the largest ancient building in the area. The top floor of the building will become a museum for Shaxi valley and there is talk of a café opening on the bottom floor.

Shaxi is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination for outdoor enthusiasts. There are many hiking trails in the area offering beautiful views and amazing destinations. Some of the hikes include trails to Shibao Shan and to Yi minority villages, which can be found high in the nearby mountains. Shibao Shan is about a two-hour hike from Shaxi and is home to well preserved rock carvings that are over 1,300 years old. The Yi villages provide a glimpse of the past with the villagers living they same way they have for centuries.

Fridays in Shaxi are important for everyone because of the giant outdoor market that takes place on the streets of Sideng village. People from all of the villages come to sell their wares on the street, selling everything from dentures to livestock.

The trip from Dali to Shaxi takes about three-and-a-half hours via the bus to Jianchuan (剑川)。As there are no large buses to Shaxi itself, the final leg is traveled via minibuses, which wait at the intersection of the roads to Jianchuan and Shaxi.

A newly renovated theater - over 200 years old - now has five guestrooms with Western restrooms and will open to the public soon. Until then the place to stay is Wu Yunxin's guesthouse. It has four nice guest rooms, hot showers and serves delicious traditional Bai dishes.

Links:

Shaxi Rehabilitation Project

Teahorse.net

Tags: hiking, Shaxi, Shaxi Rehabilitation Project, Tea and Horse Caravan Route, travel

Trying to find good full-court basketball in Kunming is difficult, but not impossible. One of the city's better-kept secrets is the multi-purpose gym behind the Wuhua District Stadium (五华区体育场). Well-hidden behind a sauna around the back of the stadium, the gym is features a nice full-size basketball court that can be rented by the hour.

We joined a group of about 15 players and played a three-team tournament for two hours. Everyone chipped in 20 yuan and agreed to return at the same time every week. The facilities include changing rooms and restrooms, however there are no showers.

If basketball is not your cup of tea, the space can also be rented for badminton, ping pong or volleyball. The staff is very helpful and can set up for whatever sport you want and even provide some equipment.

In Kunming, there is no shortage of people looking to get some exercise and this gym allows for you to decide the sport, the people and the time. It is open daily from 8am to midnight.

Ping-pong costs 10 yuan per hour and badminton is 15 yuan per hour. During peak hours (6pm to midnight) prices increase to 15 and 20 yuan, respectively.

Basketball and volleyball rates are 150 yuan per hour, regardless of the time. Call ahead to find available times and to reserve the court. If you make your group into a weekly occurrence, you may even get a discount.

The gym is located at 13 Dianchi Lu, near the intersection of Dianchi Lu, Huancheng Nan Lu and Xiyuan Nan Lu in southwest downtown Kunming. Click here to view our map of Kunming.

Wuhua District Stadium Basketball Court
13 Dianchi Lu
滇池路13号
Tel: 4190447

Tags: badminton, basketball, ping pong, sports, table tennis, volleyball, Wuhua District Stadium